Jodhpur

 A train journey took us to Jodhpur.  Day train is an awesome way to travel as the windows are open so you feel attached to the view whilst also have the smooth tracks rather than the pot-hole ridden roads.  Jodhpur was our first real taste of a market city and the first night we went for a walk through streets and streets full of beautiful fabrics and tacky objects in equal quantities.  As Diwali preparations were well under way there were all sorts of lights for sale everywhere and strings of bright marigolds used as offerings to the Hindu gods at the millions of temples all over Rajasthan.  It was a strange echo of Mexico where they use the same flowers in strings to decorate graves and shrines around this time of year for Day of the Dead; similarities in climate causing similar traditions

We visited the Meherangarh Fort. 

There are heaps of forts in Rajasthan as the maharajas used to spend most of their time either marrying each others offspring or attacking each other - sometimes simultaneously.  Sitting high above the city the views were stunning.  Seeing the old 'blue' city from that perspective meant the name became clear where many houses are painted with indigo which acts as a natural insect repellent (probably explaining why smurfs rarely catch malaria). 

 Walking up the steep entrance ramp, which has sharp twists and turns to prevent armies attacking with galloping elephants, we entered the fort which was also the royal palace.  The carving of the stone walls throughout the entire complex was overwhelming.  It turns out that the Maharajas would commission grand palaces and extensions of existing ones as a form of famine relief.  This inventive alternative to the dole meant thousands of men would be employed for periods of up to 20 years creating intricately designed buildings in celebration of power or love or god or all of the above. 

We wandered around for hours in the maze of courtyards, corridors and rooms following the dulcet direction of the audio guide, learning about elephant carriages, opium ceremonies, coronations and tapestries.  Much was said about 'purdah' which is the screening of the ladies quarters.  This has a huge influence over Indian architecture as it necessitates that windows be designed to allow women to look out over the activities in the courtyards without being on view themselves.  In the fort many window spaces were carved lattices with different geometric patterns, from the outside appearing beautifully decorative, and from the inside acting as curious peep-holes. 

There is something serenely unobtrusive about opulent Indian architecture.  It seems comfortable with it's own magnificence and feels no need for sudden surprise or gimmick.  From entering the fort until departing the sustained level of beauty left us glowing.  Its like that sigh after eating the perfect meal - total aesthetic saturation.

Back at the hotel we got talking to some girls from England who we had seen a few times over the couple of days in Jodhpur but not spoken to.  After reassuring that we were not stalking each other on purpose we discovered they were heading to Udaipur the next day and we would be going in the evening.  We made plans to have dinner on the night of Diwali.