Srinigar and the houseboat family on Dal Lake were just too lovely to leave too soon so our plans changed and we stayed on longer. Firdous whose boat we have stayed on oraganised a three day water trek for us to go up through some different lakes and see a more remote side of Kashmir. They have boats called Shikara (not to be mistaken with the hip shaking latina singer) that look like the gondolas in venice. They aren't very big but they packed one out with tents, sleeping things, stoves, lamps, food etc to support five people - two rowers, Firdous as cook, and us - for 3 days / two nights. It was amazingly organised and really comfortable... such a luxury.
The first lake we came to was very large and as it is so close to Dal Lake has been used a lot for agriculture. There were heaps of lotus lilly fields. It's a profitable harvest as the roots and seed pods are eaten by people and the leaves by cattle so nothing is wasted. Dividing each field there is floating land built up on top of wood. Periodically there are stakes like fence posts, without which the land would just float away.
We passed through a few small villages where we were stared at as much as we looked out. We passed some children who shouted to us obviously wanting something. Our minds jumped to money/food and we shook our heads and said no until one of them said 'photo'. They were so happy when we took a picture... which I wanted to do but felt intrusive. This has happened quite a few times since - not sure where the delight lies but for such a simple act to cause joy, and build up the portrait collection, is awesome.
*****
On the first night of our boat trek we pitched our tent on an island late as the sun was nearly setting, pippa and I needed the loo so we jumped over some barbed wire into the wooded area and did our business. The next morning to our[my] surprise we had actually "businessed" in a huge marijuana plantation!
D
*****
The second day meant waking up early and heading off into a village where we changed boats for a small even rickety-er shikara. Just three of us went off up an isolated river and entered into a huge lake surrounded by mountains. It was completely still and empty. After paddling out far Firdous said, "so who jumps first" and dan manned up to the task stripped to boxers and dived in. I soon followed. The water was cold but so clear and fresh. Just beautiful.
*****
Having returned to the houseboat we were invited to the wedding of the houseboat family's cousin. It seems it'll be insane - they have invited almost 2000 people and yesterday when we stopped by were in the process of chopping up a herd of sheep. Will let you know how it goes!
P
The first lake we came to was very large and as it is so close to Dal Lake has been used a lot for agriculture. There were heaps of lotus lilly fields. It's a profitable harvest as the roots and seed pods are eaten by people and the leaves by cattle so nothing is wasted. Dividing each field there is floating land built up on top of wood. Periodically there are stakes like fence posts, without which the land would just float away.
We passed through a few small villages where we were stared at as much as we looked out. We passed some children who shouted to us obviously wanting something. Our minds jumped to money/food and we shook our heads and said no until one of them said 'photo'. They were so happy when we took a picture... which I wanted to do but felt intrusive. This has happened quite a few times since - not sure where the delight lies but for such a simple act to cause joy, and build up the portrait collection, is awesome.
*****
On the first night of our boat trek we pitched our tent on an island late as the sun was nearly setting, pippa and I needed the loo so we jumped over some barbed wire into the wooded area and did our business. The next morning to our[my] surprise we had actually "businessed" in a huge marijuana plantation!
D
*****
The second day meant waking up early and heading off into a village where we changed boats for a small even rickety-er shikara. Just three of us went off up an isolated river and entered into a huge lake surrounded by mountains. It was completely still and empty. After paddling out far Firdous said, "so who jumps first" and dan manned up to the task stripped to boxers and dived in. I soon followed. The water was cold but so clear and fresh. Just beautiful.
The second night was spent camping amongst a grove of trees straight out of a studio ghibli film. We played cards, made fire, didn't catch any fish, finally got a pretty good pic of a kingfisher that wasn't just a blueish blur. On the way back as we neared Dal lake suddenly a journey that should have been a few minutes turned into hours. All of the floating litter from up town gathered in one narrow area of river. It was so thick of rubbish the shikara could barely have water to float. We all got out and standing on the bank helped pull the boat through. It was heart wrenching after falling in love with the perfect tranquil waters to see what it can turn into if not looked after.
*****
Having returned to the houseboat we were invited to the wedding of the houseboat family's cousin. It seems it'll be insane - they have invited almost 2000 people and yesterday when we stopped by were in the process of chopping up a herd of sheep. Will let you know how it goes!
P
